Smart Lock Installation Vancouver

We fit and configure the mainstream platforms, and we will fit a lock you already bought as readily as one we supply.

• Keypad deadbolts. A code instead of a key, with separate codes per person that you can delete. No app, no network, batteries only. The simplest thing that works.
• Wi-Fi locks. Lock, unlock and check state from anywhere, with a log of who came and went and the ability to let a trade in while you are at work.
• Bluetooth locks. Auto-unlock as you walk up, without depending on the house network. A good fit where the front door is a long way from the router.
• Retrofit smart cylinders. Keep the existing keyed cylinder outside and add app or keypad control inside. The easy path on a door you do not want to change.

Two separate numbers, and it helps to keep them separate.

Fitting is a lock change: $80-$160 a door installed, including the strike plate, 3-inch screws into the stud and the configuration handover. A retrofit cylinder inside an existing deadbolt is the same job. The standard service call is $75 and it is folded into the fitting on a booked install.

The lock itself is quoted by model, because a basic keypad deadbolt and a Wi-Fi lock with a camera are not the same purchase. We quote the exact model so you can price it against a shelf anywhere, and we will fit hardware you supplied without loading the labour for it.

Where the value actually is

The saving is not on the hardware. It is on everything a smart lock stops you paying for: a rekey at $25-$45 per cylinder every time a tenant, cleaner or house-sitter changes, a lockout at $80-$160 when a key goes missing on a Saturday, and the spare cut for every person who needs occasional access at $5-$15 a time. A household that rotates access three or four times a year gets the fitting cost back quickly. A household with two adults and one key each does not, and we will say so.

What it does not buy is strength. See high-security locks if the concern is force rather than convenience.

Step one is the door, not the lock. We check the backset, the cross-bore, the door thickness and the existing prep, because the most common smart-lock failure is a lock that was never going to seat properly on that door.

Step two is the install: the old deadbolt out, the new one in, the strike aligned so the bolt throws without being helped, and 3-inch screws into the framing stud. A motorized bolt that has to fight a misaligned strike eats batteries and then fails.

Step three is the setup: codes, app account, network pairing, auto-lock timing and low-battery alerts. Step four is the handover, where you add and remove a code yourself in front of us, so the system is yours rather than ours.

For a rental, the point of a smart lock is that a turnover stops being a locksmith visit. Codes are rotated between tenants, each cleaner and contractor gets their own, and the log tells you when each was used.

We set landlords up with an owner code that survives every rotation, a documented reset procedure for when a tenant leaves with the app still installed, and a physical key backup held at the shop rather than under a mat. Where a building entry door is involved, that is strata territory and needs their approval first.

Managing a whole building rather than a suite? See commercial locksmith.

We fit a lot of these, and we still talk people out of them regularly.

• A mortise or multi-point door. Most retrofit smart locks assume a North American bored deadbolt. A mortise body or a multi-point strip needs a purpose-built unit, not an adapter.
• A door under 1 3/8 inches, or a fire door with concealed hardware. The lock will not fit, or fitting it breaks the rating.
• You wanted security, not convenience. A restricted-keyway cylinder is cheaper and stronger: see lock change in Vancouver or lock rekey.
• Nobody in the house wants an app. A keypad deadbolt with no network is usually the better fit, and it is cheaper.

Everything else we do for homes is at residential locksmith.